Kerala, Onam festival



I have travelled so many places but this time, it was special. coz, for the first time, I went as a Trip Lead through F5escapes.com. Thanks to them for trusting me and giving this opportunity. Had a great experience as a traveller with a responsibility of co travellers. New people, New place, New opportunity..unexplainable experience.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Reach Kochi airport - Fort Kochi beach - Church- Kathakali dance prog.
Day 2: Kumbhalangi peninsula island - Kumarakom houseboat
Day 3 : Aranmula - mirror making- museum- boat decoration
Day 4 : Onam sadya  - boat race
Day 5: Back to kochi airport

Day 1:
Had reached Kochi in the morning and had to wait for others to join. By noon had our group together in the hotel. It was already 2pm and we all were very hungry as each had waited for others arrival and due to unavoidable reasons it was delayed. We all went to nearby restaurant but everywhere it was closed by 2pm and we dint have much options. So we all had at different places as everyone had their choices. Somehow, had our tummy full for the timebeing with whatever we got.

By 5pm we all left to watch the Kathakali show. It was for 2 hours. First 1hour the artists showed how they do their own make up before the dance show. The theme was Dushshasanas vadham. The way they make up is a MUST watch to learn how much patience they really have to sit and carefully do it. All the colours used in the make-up are obtained from natural substances and herbs. For example, the red and yellow colours are made by powdering stones like Chaayilyam and Manayola respectively. A mixture of lime and rice flour serves for white. The green colour is produced by mixing Manayola and Neelam (blue). Coconut oil is used as the base for mixing these stone powders. Another stone, Chenchilyam is powdered and applied in order to protect the skin from burns. Kanmashi or Kajal (the black substance) is prepared by burning gingelly oil. Kumkumam or saffron is also used for the make-up. However, now-a-days many of these colour mixing processes have been replaced by easily available material like paper pulp etc.

he make up colour also plays an important role in Kathakali. According to Sastras color symbolism has got significance.They reflect certain categories of emotions and gunas(attributes).The classification and nature of character are as follows.

Green represents Sattivika nature (Godliness)
Red represents Rajasic nature (ambition and violence)
Black represents Tamasic nature (evil)
Yellow represents Sattivika & Rajasic nature
White with spirituality

The nava rasas (9 expressions) they showed in the performance was awesome. They first explain in detail and then the show begins. That way, one can really understand and enjoy their Kathakali performance.

After this program, we all had a good dinner in Rasoi hotel and finally had time to chitchat.

Day 2:
After having our breakfast we left for Kumbalangi penninsula island village (model tourist village), which was 30mins drive. We were welcomed by the guide Ms Jiji. Its a beautiful, peaceful place. We all sat in the country boat for a ride. Kumbalangi is surrounded by backwaters. Chinese Fishing Nets cover the island and the village boasts of rich aquatic life. An array of mangroves separate land from water and provide for a good breeding ground for prawns, crabs and small fish.

After coming back to the island, we had a refreshing coconut water. Later the artists displayed their talents. Pottery, coir weaving etc. With a coconut tree we can see how they use every and every part of it. They make broom, basket, mat, rope. Worth watching these, esp the local ladies who were full of energy, they sing, dance and made us also to do. Had a wonderful time at this place. One must try to spend more time here. We also saw crab catching apart from fishing. 


After almost 4hrs spent here, we had snacks and tea/coffee at the hosts home and then left for Kumarakkom houseboat. It was 2hrs drive. On the way we all had great time playing anthakshari. 
By 4pm we settled in houseboat and had our lunch. It was really yummy as all were feeling hungry!

The houseboat took us on the ride and we all enjoyed the beautiful view of backwaters. Few of them took a speed boat ride. After almost 2hrs, the boat was parked on the shore in a small village. We all got down and took a walk into that village. There was a beautiful Krishna temple and we spent sometime there. As it was getting dark, we all came back to houseboat. We had nothing to do except spend time together. So had different topics to gossip and after dinner we played cards and then went off to sleep. 

Day 3 & 4: 
Early morning few of us got up and went for a walk in the village again. It was so peaceful and relaxing walk. No pollution, chaos. We saw people calm and relaxing. Not like the machine life which we find in the city.

After we came back to our houseboat, we had our breakfast and the boat started back to the place where we boarded. We bid goodbye to the guys who served us on the houseboat and continued our journey to Aranmula.

Aranmula is known for...

1. "Sree Parthasarathy Temple" is situated on the banks of the Pamba River in Pathanamthitta district. There are several fascinating stories from different versions of the Mahabharata on how Parthasarathy landed up here but we won’t get into those now. The place gets its name because the idol of Parthasarathy was supposed to have been shifted here from a forest, on a little boat made of six pieces of bamboo. Hence the name Aranmula stayed on. The temple is also considered one of the 108 Divya Desams of the Shri Vaishnavas.

2. Mirror: A special alloy is used to manufacture the Aranmula Kannadi(mirror). The metal mirror manufactured in Aranmula is a front surface reflection mirror, which eliminates secondary reflections and aberrations typical of back surface mirrors. They are not made of the usual glass and silver nitrate combination. When they fall down, they don’t break. Yes, mirrors that don’t crack so easily! The exact metals that form the alloy are said to be a combination of copper and tin. This extra ordinary traditional hand made metal mirror, is famous for bringing prosperity, luck and wealth in to life.

Aranmula mirror as an auspicious gift

Story goes that the crown of Lord Parthasarathy was once found cracked. The local ruler summoned the head goldsmith and ordered him to make a new crown within three days. The goldsmith was worried as he neither had sufficient materials for this task nor had sufficient time. He returned home distraught and told his wife. The wife was a great devotee of a goddess and prayed for help. That night she had a dream where the goddess revealed to her proportions for a bronze alloy that shone like a mirror. The condition was that all the ladies in their community must sell the gold they had, to collect enough tin and copper. The crown made out of the combination of copper and tin turned out to be a miracle of sorts. It looked silver in color, like a regular mirror, was brittle like glass and shone with great brilliance. It reflected like a proper mirror. This metallurgical wonder was transferred from generation to generation over time.

The exact recipe of this mirror is a closely guarded secret of the Vishwakarma community. It is considered one of the ‘Ashtamangalyams’ or eight auspicious things every family must own. It is supposed to bring good luck to the owner.

Making this mirror is a highly skilled and tedious process. A single mirror takes several weeks to make. It cannot be mass-produced in a factory. Each mirror is handmade. Only mud from the local paddy fields is used to make the mould.

3. Mural painting: 
We visited an exhibition nearby. There were beautiful Mural paintings and its also famous for the vastu vidya.

4. Boat race on Onam: 
The villages around this temple consider Parthasarathy as their family god. Every year around the period of Onam, the residents of the villages around the temple commemorate the instillation of this idol by taking part in ritual boat races. The long snake boats accompanied by much fanfare and local participation compete with each other in a high-energy recreation every year. Three snake boats row in union to the accompaniment of songs and reach their destination. The oarsmen dressed in white dhotis and white turbans around their heads row the snake boats to the rhythmic tunes of traditional boat songs. Fifty-one snake boats from different provinces participate in this race. The boats are called ‘Palliyodam’ or ‘boat of the lord’. This is a community initiative and everyone participates in it with much merriment.

Story goes that a pious Bhattadri devotee who fed the poor a day before Onam was once waiting when no one showed up. A small boy appeared, received his hospitality and while leaving said from the following year he must bring food to the temple. That night the Bhattadri has a dream where it is revealed that it was Lord Parthasarathy who came in the guise of that small boy to partake food earlier. Ever since, year after year, the families continue to take food to the temple. Over a period of several centuries, this has become a large community ritual. Food is got on boats from the other side of the bank and offered at the temple.

The largest Onam feast is first offered to Lord Parthasarathy before thousands of devotees, especially the oarsmen who participated in the boat races are fed. In fact, it is easily the largest vegetarian feast offered in any temple across India. On manicured banana leaves, an array of foods is spread out to make an exhaustive Onam Sadya. This is also the end of the monsoon season and the freshest of crop is offered.

We visited the temple,  watched the boat race and had the Onam sadya too. It is an unforgettable festival trip to this place. The Malakkarethu house homestay where we stayed was too good. 

Day 5:
After good local breakfast, Idiyyappam and kadala curry made by the chef at the homestay, we all left to Kochi Airport to catch our flights back to home. 

If one can, do visit these places esp on Onam time. Once in a life time experience to see their culture,traditions. 

 Have a great time! 
Thanks!



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