Mesmerising Meghalaya



Meghalaya, a beautiful state in north-east India also known as an 'Abode of clouds', is a one stop place for nature lovers. With its intensified greenery, cloudy atmosphere, and its captivating waterfalls, it stands out as the most pleasing destination for the tourists who enjoy living in the lap of nature.

This was a reunion trip with travel freak friends in November 2017 with Ajanta through Gonewhere. Well planned trip and we all had lots of fun and back with lotsss of memories to cherish for life.

Day 1:  River Brahmaputra - Guwahati

We all reached Guwahati Airport and had lunch on the way. Then took a cruise on Brahmaputra river and enjoyed the sunset. The calm river and the beautiful sunset makes you be at peace. We all had snacks and since it was a reunion had lots of things to gossip about. Then back to hotel to get recharged for the next day.

Day 2: Maa Kamakhya temple - Pobitora wild life sanctuary
Maa Kamakhya or Kameswari is the renowned Goddess of Desire whose famous shrine is located in the heart of Nilachala Hill situated in the western part of Guwahati, the Capital City of the state of Asom in North East India. Maa Kamakhya Devalaya is considered most sacred and oldest of the 51 Shakti Peethas on earth. It is the centrepiece of widely practiced, powerful Tantrik Shaktism cult in India.

The Kamakhya temple is dedicated to the tantric goddesses. Apart from the deity Kamakhya Devi, compound of the temple houses 10 other avatars of Kali namely Dhumavati, Matangi, Bagola, Tara, Kamala, Bhairavi, Chinnamasta, Bhuvaneshwari and Tripuara Sundari. There is no statue, idol or image of Devi in the temple, but in the corner of the cave in the temple, there is sculptured image of the yoni or Vagina of the goddess, which is the object of worship and reverence.

Mythical History:

The temple of Kamakhya has a very interesting story of its origin. It is one of the 108 Shakti peeths. The story of the Shakti peeths goes like this; once Sati fought with her husband Shiva to attend her father's great yagna. Despite her husband Lord Shiva’s disapproval, Sati had gone to attend the universal ‘yajna’ organised by her father Daksha. Shiva was not invited, and was also abused by Daksha. Unable to bear the insult, Sati committed suicide. When Shiva came to know that his beloved wife had committed suicide, he went insane with rage. He placed Sati's dead body on his shoulders and did the tandav or dance of destruction.


To calm him down, Vishnu cut the dead body with his chakra. The 108 places where Sati's body parts fell are called Shakti peeths. Kamakhya temple is special because Sati's womb and vagina fell here.

The Name 'Kamakhya':

The God of love, Kamadeva had lost his virility due to a curse. He sought out the Shakti's womb and genitals and was freed from the curse. This is where 'love' gained his potency and thus, the deity 'Kamakhya' devi was installed and worshipped here. Some people also believe that the Kamakhya temple is a place where Shiva and devi Sati had their romantic encounters. As the Sanskrit word for lovemaking is 'kama', the place was named Kamakhya.

The Bleeding Goddess:

Kamakhya devi is famous as the bleeding goddess. The mythical womb and vagina of Shakti are supposedly installed in the 'Garvagriha' or sanctum of the temple. In the month of Ashaad (June), the goddess bleeds or menstruates. At this time, the Brahmaputra river near Kamakhya turns red. The temple then remains closed for 3 days and holy water is distributed among the devotees of Kamakhya devi. There is no scientific proof that the blood actually turns the river red. Some people say that the priests pour vermilion into the waters. But symbolically, menstruation is the symbol of a woman's creativity and power to give birth. So, the deity and temple of Kamakhya celebrates this 'shakti' or power within every woman.


In the evening had a bon fire and Bihu, local folk dance by kids. It was too good to see different kind. We also danced with them. Completely enjoyable time learning their dance. One must experience this when you are in Meghalaya.

On Bihu, you can be visited by several Bihu troops, made up of children in traditional Assamese garb; boys wearing the the Dhoti-Gomocha(an upper garment as well as tied around the waist and head), and girls wearing the Mekhala-Chador ( a kind of half saree). Carrying makeshift instruments to produce the rhythm; the heart of any Bihu performance. Indeed, every child of Assam knows the Bihu songs and moves naturally to the Bihu rhythm. The most popular version of this dance, is the one performed during Spring by young men and women, in costumes as described above. It is a season to find love. Many of the songs welcome Spring and the new life and activity, it brings. Typically you will find twice the number of men (who sing and also play the instruments like the Dhol, Cymbals, flute and other indigenous instruments), versus the women; who enter the arena, later. Traditional versions of Bihu involved the men singing and dancing behind the women; the chase of courtship, that is common to our species. A mesmerizing, graceful and uplifting spectacle, that beats any Bollywood song & dance routine, by a long mile. Nevertheless, the dance has also evolved with times, as everything else in life. Here's a version by the students of Cotton University, many of these young people could sing and also play several instruments. Their passion for the craft was contagious and their craft; hypnotic and entralling. Be warned; Bihu rhythm' s gonna get you...


Day 3: Pobitora wildlife sanctuary - Umiam lake - Don bosco museum :


Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is nestled in the grasslands of Assam which is the dwelling place of the Greater Indian One-Horned Rhinoceroses with its highest population in the whole world. It is landlocked by Assamese villages from every side of it with the traditional Assamese culture. Overall, the terrain of Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is a breathtaking experience for a traveler or an admirer of nature. We were lucky enough to witness mating of the Rhinos.  One-hour jeep and elephant safaris are conducted inside the park. Many tourists prefer to go on an elephant safari because it enables them to get closer to the rhinos. However, others believe it's cruel to ride elephants and choose a jeep safari instead. 



Umiam Lake: 
One of the popular tourist spots in Shillong, Umiam Lake is a vast and scenic reservoir that attracts a large number of tourists from across the country. Also known as “Bara Pani” or the Big Water, The Lake is a part of a dam, constructed as a first Hydel Power Project in this North-East Indian State. The cumulative catchment area including both the Dam and the lake is over 220 sq.km.


Intended initially as a reservoir for a Dam, the Lake quickly became one of the most popular tourists’ spots in Shillong, becoming a prominent venue for kayaking, water cycling, boating and scooting. Tourists can also enjoy riding row boats, paddle boats, sailing boats, cruise boats and speed boats as well.

Due to its picturesque, panoramic setting, surrounded by the lush and lofty East Khasi Hills, Umiam Lake is often compared with the beautiful and mesmerizing Lakes of Scotland.

Assam state Museum:
The Assam State Museum is located in the southern end of Dighali Pukhuri tank which is in the heart of Guwahati city. . The museum was established by the Kamarupa Anusandhan Samiti (Assam Research Society) in 1940. In the year 1953, it was taken over by the State Goverment. The exhibits in the Museum are displayed under different sections, viz., epigraphy, sculptures (the sculptures from the Assam region fall into four principal categories - stone, wood, metal and terracotta), natural history, crafts, anthropology, folk art, arms, and miscellaneous. The library in the Assam State Museum was established in 1985, and is rich in its stenographic collections. There are various periodicals, journals like the Asiatic Society journals, and books that refer to art, culture, mythology, biography, encyclopaedic works.

Day 4: Elephant falls - Dawki - India Bangladesh border

Elephant falls:



The falls are situated about 12 km away from the Meghalayan capital city of Shillong. The name Elephant Falls was given by British officers who discovered its existence in the heart of the mountainous jungles of Meghalaya. There was a curious rock on one side of the falls which eerily resembled an elephant and hence the nomenclature. The eponymous rock was however destroyed in an earthquake in the year 1897 and the residual rock has been disintegrated since then due to the continuous barrage of water falling from a high altitude.

The Real Name
Like everything else which was renamed by the British, the Elephant Falls had a name before it received a colonial makeover. In the local Khasi language, the name of the waterfall is Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohshiew whose literal translation from the Khasi language means ‘the three-step waterfall’. True to its name, the waterfall is divided into three steps literally. The first step of the waterfall is broad and sluggish and is lost amongst the dense forests all around, the second step though more concentrated lacks the huge drop and is often hidden from the public eye.

The third and the most important step comprises of a sheer vertical drop and a cascading flow of water which makes the falls one of the best waterfalls in the country.

Dawki:
A boat that takes you along a jeweled stream that has some magical creatures floating below and stunning jewels that lie at the bottom of the bed. As you float along, you encounter sparkling cascades that drop down from stunning hills that are covered with green trees.


This place is truly mesmerizing! Dawki is a small border town along the India Bangaladesh border in Meghalaya. The town is a hot spot for trade between the two nations but in reality, has a lovely fairyland enclosed within. The Actual name of Dawki is Umngot river. This is considered as one of the cleanest rivers in India. One look at it and you will definitely agree. When its a good sunny day, one can actually see the crystal glass surface. Silent and calm, sparkling in the sun, Green yet clear, so far yet near.

When you are riding on the boat, we can see the rocks and greenery. Dont miss the salty fruit they sell on Bangaladesh Dawki river border.

A must visit India Bangaladesh border here.

Day 5: Double decker root bridge - Cherrapunjee
Deep in the dense tropical forest of Meghalaya, and shrouded in cloud and rain for much of the year, are some astonishing man-made natural wonders. Known as living root bridges, inventive members of the Khasi tribe have trained them to grow from the roots of ancient rubber trees, native to the northeast region. The root bridges provide a stable alternative to wooden bridges, which decay and get destroyed during the lengthy monsoon seasons.


Overview of the Living Root Bridges
It takes around 15 years for a new root bridge to become strong enough to bear the weight of people crossing it. However, it will continue to grow and strengthen even more over time. Some of the bridges are believed to be hundreds of years old, although no one knows their exact age. Their tangled webs of roots are almost eerie in nature and wouldn't look out of place in a fantasy world.

Visiting the double-decker root bridge is not easy. The trek there is long and tiring. It's worth it though, for an out-of-this-world experience that's guaranteed to be a highlight of your travels.

About the Trek
The path to the double-decker root bridge is three kilometers (nearly two miles) long. It has approximately 3,500 stairs and descends 2,400 feet. Those are some daunting figures, but don't let it put you off!

There are three parts to the trek. The steepest and most challenging part is the first part, down the hill to Nongthymmai village (where the longest root bridge, Ritymmen, is located). It takes about 45 minutes, along a seemingly endless trail of steps that plunges deeper and deeper into the forest. It seems like paradise, with jack fruits and pineapples growing wildly amid the jungle of vegetation.

Nongthymmai is a surprisingly attractive village of bee keepers with neat cement paths, well-groomed flower gardens, and blue and white painted church. From there, it takes at least another hour to reach the double-decker root bridge.

The remaining two parts of the trek, which involve crossing narrow steel suspension bridges over raging rivers, are much flatter and less taxing. However, this, as well as the steep descent, may make the trek challenging for anyone who's afraid of heights or has vertigo.

Just as start doubting whether you'll ever get there, after tackling yet another ascending staircase you'll be greeted with a sign announcing Nongriat village. Drag yourself up the final set of stairs, look down, and there it will be like something from a fairytale-- the double-decker root bridge with it's gnarly thick roots covered in moss.

Take enough water, chocolates to quench ur thirst as well as to give to the kids in the village.

Day 6: Back to Shillong - Mawsmai cave - Mawphlang sacred forest

Mawsmai cave:

The Mawsmai Caves are limestone caves situated in the Jaintia Hills of Meghalaya. The cave is almost 150 meters long and forms a major tourist attraction.

The limestone formations in the cave are fascinating. There are stalactites and stalagmites in different shapes and sizes formed by years of natural abrasion and underground water action. Mawsmai Caves are a world of adventure. It offers opportunities for cave exploration and cave diving. It is well lit which allows visitors to see the rock formations clearly.

The cave is a one way road; means one enters from one end and comes out at other end. There are places in the cave, where visitors need to bend and squeeze themselves out. This place is unusually beautiful and adventurous.

Mawphlang sacred forest:
One of the noted sacred forests in Meghalaya is Mawphlang, about 25 km from Shillong. The sacred grove has an amazing life form of plants, flowering trees, orchids and butterflies. An ideal site for nature lovers, the forest has been preserved by traditional religious sanction since time immemorial. It is sacred because the forest, which is spread across 78 hectares of land, is protected by the local deity-Labasa.

Legends have it

The Sacred Forest is protected by the Lyngdoh clan, who believe that the deity protects their village. The huge forest was first ruled by th Blah clan, who found it difficult to rule the massive forest. Then they decided to choose another clan. Blah clan found a woman Lyngdoh, who had a son. She agreed to let her son protect the forest but on one condition. She planted 5 saplings and saif if they grew into trees, her son witll takeover. The saplings grew beautifully.

But, you need to know only one thing here, You Cannot Take Anything Out Of this Sacred Forest. Not even a leaf! From leaves to fallen logs to stones, one cant take anything out. The Army in 1970 once tried to take out dead logs out of this forest but they couldn't leave as the truck refused to start.

There are certain rules in the forest. You cannot disrespect else the deity gets angry. People have seen the deity. If you break the rules, you will fall sick, which can even result in death! Thats what people believe there.

The entry to this Sacred forest is no less like a green tunnel, formed by green branches. As you move inside the forest, you will see monoliths, which represent places of sacrifice. The tribe here sacrifices cocks, lambs etc to make their wishes come true. Even the sacrifices have to be perfect. There are trees, which are said to have cure for diseases.

The Khasi villagers here celebrate nature and organise festivals every year. There are traditional dances, food, reunions that tie them all in one thread.

All have one rule.. Respect the Sacred Forest!




Thus, Ends our trip with beautiful memories!

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