Kutch

Kutch nahi dekha tho kuch nahi dekha.....

I had been planning for this Rann utsav in Kutch since 3 yrs and finally was lucky to get the Trip Lead from F5escapes.com this year (Dec 2019). This is the only travel group that takes internal places of any place we go. Hence, I was very excited and also needed a break from the routine life. It was a 9 day trip from Ahmedabad.

Day 2 – Little Rann of Kutch. Wild Ass Sanctuary

Day 3 – Dholavira. Sunset at Rann of Kutch Lake.

Day 4 – Harappan Civilization excavation site. Khamir. Bhujodi. Overnight near Bhuj.

Day 5 – Kalo Dungar. India Bridge. White Rann. Overnight in Hodka

Day 6 – Nirona. Than Jagir. Fossil Park. Devpur.

Day 7 – Bhuj sightseeing. Shopping.

Day 8 – Ajrakhpur. Shrujan LLDC. Ahmedabad

Day 9 -- Fly out.

Ahmedabad:

We were 9 of  us for the trip. After checking into the hotel, we all went to Gordhan Thal restaurant. Only Gujju Thali is served here which is reallyyy yummyy and very very filling for the tummy. A must eat out place and better starve before going here so u can munch as much as you can!

The first place we went after lunch was Adalaj Stepwell. Back to History...

Adalaj Stepwell or Rudabai Stepwell is a stepwell located in the village of Adalaj, close to Ahmedabad city. The Adalaj step well or 'Vav', as it is called in Gujarati, is intricately carved and is five stories deep.

Set in the quiet village of Adalaj, this vav has served as a resting place for hundreds of years for many pilgrims and caravans along their trade routes. Built in 1499 by Queen Rudabai, wife of the Vaghela chief, Veersingh, this five-storey stepwell was not just a cultural and utilitarian space, but also a spiritual refuge. It is believed that villagers would come everyday in the morning to fill water, offer prayers to the deities carved into the walls and interact with each other in the cool shade of the vav. There is an opening in the ceilings above the landing which allows the light and air to enter the octagonal well. However, direct sunlight does not touch the flight of steps or landings except for a brief period at noon. Hence some researchers say that the atmosphere inside the well is six degrees cooler than the outside. Another remarkable feature of this stepwell is that out of the many stepwells in Gujarat, it is the only one with three entrance stairs. All three stairs meet at the first storey, underground in a huge square platform, which has an octagonal opening on top. The vav is a spectacular example of Indo-Islamic architecture and design. The harmonious play of intricate Islamic floral patterns seamlessly fusing into Hindu and Jain symbolism embody the culture and ethos of those times. All the walls carved by ornamentation, mythological scenes along with everyday scenes of women churning buttermilk, dancers accompanied by musicians, women adorning themselves and a king sitting on a stool. Fascinating to many visitors is the Ami Khumbor (a pot that contains the water of life) and the Kalp Vriksha (a tree of life) carved out of a single slab of stone. There is a belief that the small frieze of navagraha (nine-planets) towards the edge of the well protects the monument from evil spirits.

As per legend the 15th century, Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty, a Hindu ruler, reigned over this territory known at that time as Dandai Desh. His kingdom was a small one. It was subject to water shortage and was highly dependent on the rains. To alleviate the misery of his people, the Rana began the construction of a large and deep stepwell.

Before this project could be completed, his kingdom was attacked by Mohammed Begda, the Muslim ruler of a neighboring kingdom. The Rana king was killed in battle and his territory was occupied by the invader. Rana Veer Singh's widow, a beautiful lady known as Rani Roopba (or Roodabai), wanted to perform Sati and join her husband in the afterlife. However, Begada prevented her from giving up her own life and proposed marriage with the dowager.

She agreed to a marriage proposal on the condition that he would first complete the building of the stepwell. The Muslim king who was deeply enamoured of the queen's beauty agreed to the proposal and built the well in record time. Once the well was completed, Begda reminded the queen of her promise to marry him. Instead, the queen who had achieved her objective of completing the stepwell started by her husband, decided to end her life. She circumambulated the stepwell with prayers and jumped into the well, ending the saga of building the well in tragedy.

One version which is narrated in the 200 years old scriptures of Swaminarayan sect suggests that before she died, Rani Roodabai requested religious saints to take bath in this stepwell so that the water in the stepwell gets purified by these saints thereby delivering her from her sins.

Another is linked to the tombs found near the well. The tombs of six masons who built the well are seen near the Vav. Begda asked the Masons if they could build another similar well and when they agreed Begda sentenced them to death instead. Begda was so impressed by the architectural excellence of the stepwell that he did not want a replica to be built.

Akshardham:

Swaminarayan Akshardham in Gandhinagar, Gujarat is a large Hindu temple complex inspired by Yogiji Maharaj (1892-1971) the fourth spiritual successor of Swaminarayan, and created by Pramukh Swami Maharaj (1921-2016), the fifth spiritual successor of Swaminarayan according to the BAPS denomination of Swaminarayan Hinduism. Located in the capital of Gujarat, the complex was built over 13 years and is a tribute to Swaminarayan and his life and teachings. At the center of the 23-acre complex is the Akshardham mandir, which is built from 6,000 metric tons of pink sandstone from Rajasthan. The complex's name refers to the divine abode of Swaminarayan in the BAPS philosophy; followers of Swaminarayan believe that the jiva or soul goes to Akshardham after attaining moksha, or liberation. BAPS followers worship Swaminarayan as God almighty.

Here mobiles, cameras, leather purses are not allowed. If possible, keep them in your vehicle and go inside. As they handle your mobiles very rudely in the counter and you never know if you will get back in good condition. As mine and few other mobiles were slightly damaged and we couldnt even ask them anything. 

Apart from the temple, you have the exhibition, watershow and a gallery. 

We came back to the hotel to refresh and then left for dinner to Swati snacks. We had many gujju snack varieties. It was interesting though! A must try if you are here in this place.

Sabarmati ashram:

Sabarmati Ashram is located in the Sabarmati suburb of Ahmedabad, Gujarat, adjoining the Ashram Road, on the banks of the River Sabarmati. Please go there before 8.30 AM as it will become very crowded after that. 

This was one of the many residences of Mahatma Gandhi who lived at Sabarmati (Gujarat) and Sevagram (Wardha, Maharashtra) when he was not travelling across India and was not in prison. He stayed in Sabarmati and Wardha for a total of twelve years along with his wife Kasturba Gandhi and followers including Vinoba Bhave. It was from his base here that Gandhi led the Dandi march also known as the Salt Satyagraha on 12 March 1930. In recognition of the significant influence that this march had on the Indian independence movement the Indian government has established the ashram as a national monument.

Its a MUST visit place. Lots of things to be learned here in those gallery. 

Wood fossil park & Kutch Lake:

The place is around 10km from Dholavira in Khadir Island in Kutch District (also called Kachchh) in Gujrat, India. The place is maintained by Department of Science and Technology, Government of India. The sign board at the site displays the information about the rocks and plants fossils at this place. The information here says Wood Fossils are of Jurassic Age (187-176 millions years old). The place is at the banks of the Rann of Kutch Lake.

Dholavira is an archaeological site of immense importance to India as it is India's most prominent archaeological site associated with the Indus Valley Civilization. It represents the ruins of an ancient city of the Harappan civilization that was inhabited over a period of 1,200 years from 3000 BCE through 1800 BCE.

Also known locally as Kotada timba, the site contains ruins of an ancient Indus Valley Civilization/Harappan city. Dholavira's location is on the Tropic of Cancer. It is one of the five largest Harappan sites and most prominent archaeological sites in India belonging to the Indus Valley Civilization.

The site of Dholavira is located at a distance of 50 kms from the Pakistan border. It was excavated in the 1960s by Professor J P Joshi. The Harappa and Mohenjo - daro sites had been known for much longer to the mankind and hence way more famous.

Language and script

The Harrapans spoke an unknown language and their script has not yet been deciphered. It is believed to have had about 400 basic signs, with many variations.[29] The signs may have stood both for words and for syllables. The direction of the writing was generally from right to left. Most of the inscriptions are found on seals (mostly made out of stone) and sealings (pieces of clay on which the seal was pressed down to leave its impression). Some inscriptions are also found on copper tablets, bronze implements, and small objects made of terracotta, stone and faience. The seals may have been used in trade and also for official administrative work.A lot of inscribed material was found at Mohenjo-daro and other Indus Valley Civilisation sites.

Sign board:

One of the most significant discoveries at Dholavira was made in one of the side rooms of the northern gateway of the city, and is generally known as the Dholavira Signboard. The Harappans had arranged and set pieces of the mineral gypsum to form ten large symbols or letters on a big wooden board. At some point, the board fell flat on its face. The wood decayed, but the arrangement of the letters survived. The letters of the signboard are comparable to large bricks that were used in nearby walls. Each sign is about 37 cm (15 in) high and the board on which letters were inscribed was about 3 m (9.8 ft) long. The inscription is one of the longest in the Indus script, with one symbol appearing four times, and this and its large size and public nature make it a key piece of evidence cited by scholars arguing that the Indus script represents full literacy. A four sign inscription with large letters on sandstone is also found at this site, considered first of such inscription on sandstone at any of Harappan sites.

Dholavira is where the remains of a part of the Harappan civilisation exist. The city is located on an island called Khadir Bet and is connected by an umbilical cord of a road which streaks across to the mainland. On either side of the road, lies the Great Rann of Kutch. The topography of the land is unforgiving. People adopt various kinds of vehicles for mobility, the discomfort surmounted with a stoic smile and the super white of their clothes.

The inhabitants of Dholavira were master water conservationists. No significant rivers were flowing by, just two rivulets — Mansar and Manhar. Nine reservoirs were built around the city to store water. The city itself is divided into three parts — the Citadel, the Middletown and the Lower town. A ramp which runs for about 30-40 feet turns left into the citadel. On the right of the ramp is a large tract of open land, which has been identified as a stadium. On either side of the stadium, one can still find remains of spectator stands.

Remains of the day

As you enter through the hallowed gates of the Citadel, you notice raised platforms on either side and a rectangular chamber on the right. Ten mysterious alphabets on a wooden board intrigue you. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has taken an imprint of the alphabets on a blue board which is carefully placed on the rectangular chamber.

You reach a flat piece of land on which several houses stood. Children would have played in the courtyard. On the far left, two pillars embedded in the ground scream for attention.

There is a well, which is now closed by an iron grill. At its mouth, there lies a massive stone slab with cuts — some thick, and some thin. Our guide said the ASI team was stumped when they excavated the well and tried to imagine how the water would have been drawn. They used two types of ropes — the thick varthad, and the thin varthadi. Big water bags were used to draw water from the well, and bulls pulled the ropes. These practices have been passed on to succeeding generations.

Reservoirs are built partly on stone beds, and partially mason made. The tanks are fed by aqua ducts which collect water from various parts of the city. The reservoir consists of two levels. The higher level will hold the clean water, and the lower level, which is like a step down, will allow sedimentation to happen, wherein the dust will settle at the base of the reservoir.

Ancient water conservationists

On the east side of the site lies the Middle town and the Lower town. The Middle Town consists of a central street running down a slope with houses/shops on either side. Well-laid drainage systems are seen, and ‘save every drop of water’ is the central theme. Earthen pots were found embedded in the ground, and in one peculiar case, on a raised platform covered in soot.

Dholavira: where the remains of the Harappan civilisation exist

The Lower Town was populated by the working class. There are remnants of many houses. Nature bound the inhabitants to stay, and later Nature willed them to migrate. Who knows, dear reader, your ancestors would have been a part of the huddle over the bonfire.

Rogan Art:

Rogan painting, is an art of cloth printing practiced in the Kutch District of Gujarat, India. In this craft, paint made from boiled oil and vegetable dyes is laid down on fabric using either a metal block (printing) or a stylus (painting). The craft nearly died out in the late 20th century, with rogan painting being practiced by only two families in same village.

The word rogan comes from Persian, meaning varnish or oil. The process of applying this oil-based paint to fabric began among the Khatris, a Muslim community who came to India from Sindh, Pakistan.[citation needed] Although the name, rogan (and some of the traditional designs) suggests an origin in Iran, there are no reliable historic records to prove this.

Rogan painting was initially practiced in several locations in the Kutch region. The painted fabric was mostly purchased by women of the lower castes who wanted to decorate clothing and bed coverings for their weddings. Therefore, it was a seasonal art, with most of the work taking place during the several months when most weddings take place. During the rest of the year, the artisans would switch to other forms of work, such as agriculture.

Traditional Story:

Rogan is 300 year-old inherited tradition that once flourished in Gujarat’s Kutch region. Today, Orignally One Abdul Gafur family of Nirona village practices Traditional Rogan Art. This craft form is preserved by the men-folk since generations.

Rogan graced mainly ghaghra-cholis, bridal trousseaus, bed sheets and tablecloths but they now adorn more contemporary items.

The lack of awareness took the craft to the brink of extinction and entire villages that practiced it switched to other trades. A young Abdul Gafur followed suit and went to Ahmedabad and even Mumbai to find work. He says, “At that time, there were no tourists (visiting Gujarat) and our art was not selling. It was only later that the government gave us a project to start helping us and that is when my grandfather and my father asked me to return.” In 1983, Abdul Gafur became so engrossed and attached with Rogan that he promised his father to take it to the international level. “I fulfilled my promise when Rogan art was presented to Barack Obama (the then President of the United States of America) by Narendra Modi during his visit to the US in 2014,” says Abdul Gafur khatri, the recipient of a Padma Shri Award (2019) and 1 International Designer award, 5 National award, 8 State award, 3 National Merit certificates Abdul Gafur Family. “We have been practicing Rogan for 46 years. If we don’t do this, no one else will and the art will be lost forever. I never dreamt of doing anything else. It is our responsibility to take our age-old tradition forward, make changes and improve the designs as much as we can”, adds Abdul Gafur Khatri. He is now teaching Rogan to women in collaboration with a non-profit organisation. But as far as tradition goes, only the family members can preserve the purity of the Rogan bloodline.

“This skill is being practiced by the Orignally One Abdul Gafur Khatri family since 300 years and now the 8th generation has embarked on its journey with perseverance.”

Process of rogan printing:

Rogan paint is produced by boiling castor oil for about two days and then adding vegetable pigments and a binding agent; the resulting paint is thick and shiny. The cloth that is painted or printed on is usually a dark color, which makes the intense colors stand out.

In rogan printing, the pattern is applied using metal blocks with patterns carved into them. In rogan painting, elaborate designs are produced freehand, by trailing thread-like strands of paint off of a stylus. Frequently, half of a design is painted, then the cloth is folded in half, transferring a mirror image to the other half of the fabric. The designs include floral motifs, animals, and local folk art.

Rann of  Kutch

The Rann of Kutch is a large area of salt marshes that span the border between Pakistan and India. It is located mostly in Gujarat, India and in some parts of Sindh, Pakistan. It is divided into the Great Rann and Little Rann.

The best time to visit Rann of Kutch is from November to February. This is the season of the festival known as Rann Utsav. During this time, there is a Carnival of Music, Dance, natural beauty of White Rann and when you visit this place during the full moon days, it's really great to enjoy.

Why is Rann of Kutch salty?

Rann of Kutch, Gujarat - Rann of Kutch is a seasonal salt marsh located in the Thar desert just 10km from the Arabian Sea in India's Gujarat district. ... In the monsoon months, Rann of Kutch is submerged in sea water. As the water recedes from October, the Agariyas move in to set up square fields to grow the salt.

What is the Rann Utsav?

Kutch Rann Utsav – A White Desert Festival

The mesmerizing beauty of nature and Charm of the culture, Rann Utsav is the initiative by the Tourism Corporation of Gujarat Limited (TCGL). It is a unique desert carnival which was prioritised in 2005 by TCGL by putting map of Gujarat on international tourism.

So, if you are going shopping in Kutch, you will get the best handicrafts, Gold Jewellery, Copper Bells, Bandhani sarees, Patchwork fabric, and pottery products that will mesmerize you.

Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary also known as the Wild Ass Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Little Rann of Kutch in the Gujarat state of India. It is spread over an area of 4954 km². The wildlife sanctuary was established in 1972 and came under the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972.

The Sanctuary is habitat to about 93 species of invertebrates, including 25 species of zooplanktons, 1 species of annelid, 4 crustaceans, 24 insects, 12 molluscs and 27 spiders. Totally 4 species of amphibians (frogs and toads) and 29 species of reptiles (2 species of turtles, 14 species of lizards, 12 snakes and 1 crocodile) occur. The mixing of tidal water from the Gulf of Kutch with the freshwater discharged from the rivers takes place in the Little Rann of Kutch, making it an important spawning ground for prawns. Metapenaeus kutchensis is the most dominant and important prawn in the area. The sanctuary provides an important feeding, breeding and roosting habitat for a large number of birds due to its strategic location on bird migration route and its connection with the dynamic Gulf of Kutch. According to an estimate about 70,000-75,000 birds nests in an area spread over 250 acres. Nine mammalian orders with 33 species/subspecies have been reported from the Little Rann of Kutch, including the world’s last population of the khur sub-species of the wild ass.

Aina Mahal Kutch, Gujarat

Gleaming, glowing and shimmering, the Aina Mahal in Bhuj is one of the finest examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture constructed ever in India. This dreamy palace is the divine creation of Ramsinh Malam. The palace is unique and extraordinary in terms of interiors and architecture. Many water bodies and fountains are engulfed in the interiors of the palace, forming a variety of patterns that charms the viewers. Spread over two floors, the building features Darbar Hall, a hall of mirrors, and suites belonging to the various members of the royal family.

The fabulous Aina Mahal is a part of the extravagant Darbargadh Palace of Bhuj. Content and the architecture of the palace are associated with the life story of its architect, Ramsinh Malam, who was rescued by the Dutch when he got shipwrecked at the East African Coast. Later, he was taken to Netherlands, where he mastered the art of tile making, enamelling, and clock making. Years later when Ramsinh came back to Kutch, the ruler of Kutch- Rao Lakha gave him an opportunity to display his skills. The Aina Mahal was thus ornamented with Venetian-style chandeliers, silver objects, clocks –all made locally under the Ramsinh’s supervision. Superb local craft like scroll paintings, jewelled swords, ivory inlaid doors, and paintings depicting processions are displayed in the palace.

Museum is also a part of Aina Mahal. Exhibits displayed in the museum include paintings, photographs, royal possessions and finest samples of the Kutch embroidery. An exquisite collection of the museum also includes 15 m long scroll that depicts the Royal Procession of Maharao Shri Pragmalji Bahadur. The fort also holds a compound; a portion of the same is almost in ruins. With so many attractions to see, Aina Mahal is surely a significant heritage of the Kutch region.

Next door to the Aina Mahal, in the same walled compound, is the giant Prag Mahal, which may at first seem slightly out of place at the far western edge of India, looking more appropriate in France. But then again, globalization is not a new phenomenon. This is a palace commissioned by King Pragmalji in the 1860s, designed by Colonel Henry Saint Wilkins in the Italian Gothic style and built in the middle of Bhuj next to the Aina Mahal. While little about it may seem Indian, there are elements; see if you can find them. In the courtyard behind the palace, there is a small Hindu temple with very nicely carved stonework; Inside the palace, you can visit the main palace halls as well as climb stairs of the 45m bell tower for an exhilarating view of the city. After coming down (not before, for your own peace of mind!), check out the cracks between the stones in the wall, visible from the courtyard, caused by various earthquakes over the years

Durbar Hall, Clock Tower, murals and the courtyard are some of the main attractions of Prag Mahal.

Kutch Museum in Bhuj is the oldest museum of Gujarat. It is located opposite Hamirsar Lake. The oldest museum in Gujarat, founded in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji, it has the largest existing collection of Kshatrapa inscriptions, dating to the 1st century AD, as well as examples of the extinct Kutchi script (now the language is mostly written in the Gujarati alphabets) and an interesting collection of coins (including the kori, Kutch's local currency.) A section of the museum is devoted to tribal cultures, with many examples of ancient artifacts, folk arts and crafts and information about tribal peoples. The museum also has exhibits of embroidery, paintings, arms, musical instruments, sculpture and precious metalwork.

A visit to the Kutch Museum, to learn about the history of tribal and folk tradition of the district, will help you get to know about present-day people and their lives. Remember that visiting a museum is a great way to learn about history, but tribals are not merely part of history, they are a major part of Kutch's (and India's) population and cultural identity today

Nirona Arts

“We can create different sounds based on how we hammer the Bell, so we must have in mind before we make the Bell on what kind of sound we want."

Copper Bell making, Saree Block prints, dyeing, making of belans.. so many hand made arts in this small village. One must visit these to get the knowledge of what it is.

Heritage walk..

A 3hour walk around Ahmedabad. Kalupur Swaminarayan temple was the point to meet our guide. 

Swaminarayan Temple, Kalupur

This temple is the first temple of the Swaminarayan sect to have been built. In 1822, the land was given by the British government to do so, and Swaminarayan himself entrusted the responsibility for the construction of the temple to Ananandanand Swami.

The temple is carved in Burmese teak, and every arch and bracket is painted with bright colors, a defining characteristic of Swaminarayan temples everywhere. There are several idols installed by Swaminarayan himself, as well as a display of some of his personal items and sculptures. In the adjoining haveli, there are quarters for pilgrims of the sect, a special section for women, and an area where ceremonies and teaching sessions are held for women only. Located near Kalupur in the eastern part of the old city, the Swaminarayan Temple is a splash of color in the midst of the city’s grey and is also the starting point for the Heritage Walk through the pols of the old city.

After the Aarti, we started to walk in the lanes. 

Kavi Dalpatram Chowk, Lambeshwar Ni Pol

Kavi Dalpatram Chowk is famous for the house of the famous 19th century Gujarati poet Dalpatram who resided there. The chowk houses a statue of the great poet with complete details like – the kathiwari embroidery on his kurta, the worn-out right foot and the meditative look in his eyes.

Kala Ramji Mandir, Haja Patel ni Pol

In the corner of Haja Patel in Pol, is the temple of Kala Ramji (Lord Rama) it is a very old temple inside residential neighborhood it is considered unique as the idol of Lord Rama is in a sitting posture caved in a black stone. This idol is often interpreted as the Period of “Vanvas” (exile in the forest) by Lord Rama, Laxman and Sita in the great epic of Ramayana. All the three idols are made out of black stone called \’Kasoti\’, which is used for testing the purity of gold. It is said that the temple was originally built by a pious man named Hariprasad who found the idols buried underneath. The temple is rich example of delicate wood carving and also a central courtyard which is important part of the architecture of Ahmedabad.

Kuvavala Khancho

Kuvavala Khancho is an intersection that had adjacent wells near Shantinathji ni Pol, giving it its name (kuva is well and khancha, passage). Interesting thing to see In Kuvavala Khancha is 4 homes opposite to each other with elements of Persian, Mughal, Maratha and European architecture reflecting the respective periods in which each facade was built, and the emblems of the earlier owners above the doors. This shows the cosmopolitan culture of old Ahmedabad. Also, you can see the Chowk (square) with the Parrot Holes on walls of the houses. Such holes were made available in exterior walls of each houses of Pol to allow Parrots (or any birds) to prepare their nests in absence of trees.

Jagvallabh Mandir, Nisha Pol

Nisha pole is famous in Ahmedabad both for its old Jagvallabh Jain Temple & large size and delicate Hindu architecture. In Jagvallabh Parshvanath Derasar right from the entrance, devotee can have a glimpse of Parshvanath’s sahastrafena idol in Kayotsaraga posture. The second garbh-gruha of the Derasar built in the year 1603 by Nagarsheth Khushalchand enshrines small black idol of Shri Chintamani Parshvanath in Padmasan. The idols testify the heights Jains achieved in the fields of art and craftsmanship. The Derasar also has a six feet tall idol of Jain Tirthankar Lord Adinath sitting in Padmasana’s yogic posture.

Zaveri vad

This area is mostly inhabited by Goldsmith community. There are many haveli type houses with profusely decorated faced in the Pol.

Doshivada ni Pol

This area is mostly inhabited by goldsmith community Main road is lined with lots of small & medium jewelry shops. There are many haveli type houses with profusely decorated facades in the pol. towards the end of the Pol is a beautiful carved Chabutara with stained glasses. This is a unique example of colonial-influence on architecture of Chabutaras. There is also landmark building once considered tallest in the walled city.

Harkunvar Shethani ni haveli

The 180 year old Harkunvar Shethani ni Haveli contains 60 rooms, most of which open on to interminable pillared balconies, supported by the longest carved wooden bracket in Ahmedabad. Stunning wood carvings found on Harkunvar Shethani ni Haveli in Old City Ahmedabad feature Indo-Chinese architectural elements. This one is the largest bracket in the Old City.

Fernandez Bridge

The Chopda Bazaar of Fernandez Bridge is one of the oldest Book Market in Ahmedabad Gujarat that serves thousands of people flocking every day in search of used and new books. The Fernandez Bridge was extended in order to extend the Gandhi Road and has been in existence since 1884 AD.

Manek baba’s mandir, Manek Chowk

For the last 600 years, the descendants of Baba Maneknath, the saint, who according to legend, ‘influenced’ or briefly ‘interrupted’ Ahmed Shah’s effort to build the new city of Ahmedabad in 15th century, hoist a flag at Manek Burage on the day of Vijayadashmi.

According to the family, Manek Burage is the site from where the construction of the city began. On Sunday, the 12th Mahant (12th generation of the family) of the Maneknath Temple hoisted the flag in keeping with the family tradition.

Rani no Haziro

Rani no Hajiro was built in the 15 century by the great sultan Ahmed Shah. The hajiro is a vault for graves and served as the last resting place for queens of this empire. Subsequent rulers of the area also continued this tradition. Walls surrounding these graves from the outside are magnificently carved out of stones. The burial place is in the centre and demarcated by a cloister (veranda).

The art of Brocade, which is as old as the history of Gujarat itself, was introduced in the reign of Ahmed Shah. This beautifully hand woven Zari cloth was used to cover the graves of the queens. It is believed that the uncharacteristic construction of an open air design of the courtyard was built according to the desire of Ahmad Shah’s queen. It was unusual because before her request, the design was a large dome covering the grave and enclosed into an ambulatory.

A great example of the mix of Hindu, Jain and Islamic culture, Rani no Hajiro showcases intricate design and carving work on the walls and domes. The burial place or the inner area is kept locked to maintain tranquillity and cleanliness of the place. The place is maintained by a family of caretakers, who have been doing this for almost five generations now. They ensure that it remains untainted and pure.

Badshah no Haziro

Ahmed Shah’s Tomb, locally known as Badshah no Hajiro or Raja no Hajiro, is a medieval mosque and the group of tombs in Ahmedabad, India. Ahmed Shah’s mosque is situated close to Jama Mosque and Manek Chowk.

Burial places assume special religious significance amid Muslims and some of their burial places are today among the hotspot tourist destinations in the country largely due to their exotic locations and exquisite architecture. At Badshah no Hajiro, which was buit in the year 1446, rest the mortal remains of the founder of Ahmedabad, Ahmed Shah I. The place is located to the western side of Manek Chowk, just outside the eastern gate of Jama Masjid. The place’s architecture is in the shape of a square, which has porticos around it. The windows are perforated and the carvings on them are breathtaking. The cenotaphs of Ahmed Shah’s son Muhammad Shah and grandson Qutbuddin Ahmed Shah III are also located at this place, where women are not allowed inside. Even men must cover their heads before they enter Badshah no Hajiro. Outside, located closeby, is the Rani-no-Hajiro which houses the tombs of queens of sultans after Ahmed Shah

This is where the male members of the royal family were buried. Women are not allowed to enter, and men must wear something to cover their heads before entering. There are also a few minister’s tombs laid out across the road. It lies to the west of Manek Chowk.

Jumma Masjid

The Jama Masjid of Ahmedabad was probably the largest mosque in the Indian subcontinent built in this period. Designed as part of a major plan desired by the Emperor Sultan Ahmed Shah, the mosque is located south of the processional axis that runs from the Maidan-i Shah at the door with three arches, Teen Darwaza.

The inscription on the mihrab commemorates the inauguration of the mosque on January 4, 1424 by Sultan Ahmad Shah I. The mosque was originally intended only for private use of the sultans.

Made by using yellow sandstones, the architecture of this mosque is a blend of Hindu and Muslim styling. This edifice was built using items rescued from the demolished Hindu and Jain temples. Supported by 260 pillars, the Jama Masjid of Ahmedabad consists of 15 domes. Jama Masjid lies in the heart of the old city.

Thus, ends our Kutch trip with a yummy gujarathi breakfast.